I am often asked a question: What should be the width of my shirt’s collar? The answer lies in the person’s body structure. Elegance is all about proportion. The width of the shirt collar depends on the body shape and shape of the face.
The spread of a collar is determined by the point spread, as shown in the above diagram. Collars can be narrow or wide spread. You can make a collar bigger or shorted by increasing or decreasing the point length.
The point length of a shirt’s collar should be proportional to the body structure. For example, for short people, I would recommend a collar with smaller point length. Similarly, for tall person the collar point should be larger.
The collar spread, on the other hand, depends on the shape of the face, as shown in the diagram below:
As you can see from the above diagram, for oval faces, too narrow spread collars don’t look nice because it elongates the face even more. Therefore, a spread collar shirt is more appropriate for oval faces. Similarly, for people with round faces, spread collars is more appropriate.
However, there are different face shapes and many are lucky to have a shape that is middle of the road and therefore can wear different collar shapes and spreads. The diagram below shows various face shapes.
Similar to shirt collars, the width of a jacket’s lapel should depend on the wearer’s body structure. As you know, the body structure can be classified into the following categories:
You can also classify body shapes as Ectomorph, Mesomorph, and Endomprph as shown below:
The width of the jacket’s lapel should be proportional to the wearer’s body structure. Generally wide people wide lapel, thin people thin lapel.
The tie width should same as the lapel width. If it differs, it should not exceed plus or minus half an inch. For example, if the lapel width is 3-inches, the tie width should be between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. (if you want to wear shinny ties you better have a suit with narrow lapels, otherwise it will look weird).