Dress Trousers

The options here are plain front, single pleat, and double pleat. Pleats are folds in front of the trousers legs. To pleat or not is a personal choice. If you decide to pleat, then you have three choices: normal pleat; reverse pleat; or box pleat. For example, some of my trousers are pleated while some are not and I don’t have any fixed preference about pleats. Un-pleated trousers give a clean look while pleated ones provide a classical look.

The other options can be pocket design, number of hip pockets, and cuffed or un-cuffed legs. I am of two minds when it comes to the question of cuffing the legs. Most of my suit trousers are un-cuffed but recently (2011) I have started to cuff them particularly with heavier materials. It also depends on the length of your pants. In the traditional design, the correct length of pants should be a single break over the shoe. However, if you want narrower designs where the pants sit straight on the shoe without any break, I would recommend cuffs because in that case the extra weight of the cuff will keep the pants straighter over the shoes and you will look sharper.

The best fabric for pants for warmer climates is linen or cotton. However, since both linen and cotton are very difficult to maintain due to their tendency to wrinkle very quickly, the next best material for hot and humid climate is viscose. Viscose is a natural product similar to rayon. It’s made from wood pulp. Many people will tell you that wool is the best material for trousers. I disagree. Wool is good for cold climates with short periods of hot weather. Don’t buy polyester material because they are very uncomfortable. However, there are now new materials known as microfibers and they are quite comfortable.

2 thoughts on “Dress Trousers

  1. I’ve come to understand that the waist for pants should be measured at the natural waste with an allowance to drop slightly. I am 50 and have belly fat. I’ve been wearing my waist just below this belly fat which lets me wear 40-42″. If I measure the natural waist I would go up to 45-46″. Also before I got this belly fat I did not wear pants at the naval. Just slightly below it. So have I been wearing suits wrong? I must say wearing pants that high feel very uncomfortable and I often see this parodied. Any advice?

    1. Any garment we wear should be comfortable. I find many people with tummy fat wearing the trousers below the accumulated fat. The only way one such person can wear at the natural waist is by a pair of suspenders (braces). There is nothing right or wrong it all depends on one’s particular circumstances.

      Thanks for the comment.


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